Discover how red and near-infrared light therapy can help reduce melasma by targeting pigmentation and promoting skin healing.
Light can be a powerful skincare tool, whether it’s an LED facial or broader light therapy. Because light doesn’t interact with the skin as visibly as a serum or moisturizer, the process can seem mysterious at first.
Here, we break down how light therapy relates to melasma—what it is, how it works, and expert advice on adding it to a skincare routine.
Melasma is sometimes called the “mask of pregnancy” because it can be triggered by hormonal shifts during pregnancy. Yet the condition is not limited to pregnant women.
“It’s not only associated with pregnancy but can affect women at all stages of life,”
says Dr. Shadi Kourosh, director of the Pigmentary Disorder and Multi-Ethnic Skin Clinic at Harvard-affiliated Massachusetts General Hospital. And it may last for many years.
“Women who develop melasma in their teens or 20s or 30s may see it stay around for decades,”
says Dr. Barbara Gilchrest, senior lecturer on dermatology at Harvard Medical School.
Melasma is a common skin condition that causes dark, discolored patches, usually on the face. It is also called chloasma, or the “mask of pregnancy,” when it occurs in pregnant women. While men can develop melasma, about 90 percent of cases are in women, according to the American Academy of Dermatology.
The exact cause is unclear. Risk is higher in people with darker skin tones, and estrogen or progesterone sensitivity can play a role. Birth control pills, pregnancy, and hormone therapy may therefore trigger melasma. Sun exposure is another key factor, because ultraviolet rays stimulate pigment-producing cells (melanocytes). Stress and thyroid disease have also been linked to the condition.
A visual exam is often sufficient. To assess depth or rule out other causes, a clinician may use a Wood’s lamp (a handheld ultraviolet light) or, occasionally, perform a small skin biopsy.
Light therapy is usually considered for stubborn melasma that has not responded to topicals or chemical peels. While creams can take three months or longer to lighten pigment, laser- or light-based procedures may accelerate clearance by speeding removal of existing melanin. They do not, however, stop new pigment from forming, so they are not a cure.
Patients should be counseled that results vary, maintenance sessions are often needed, and strict sun protection remains essential.
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